Sunday, December 27, 2009

The Ngobe Food Pyramid

We all remember our food pyramid from school, right? Of course we do. A balanced diet consists of grains, plenty of fruits and vegetables, some dairy, and the occasional fat and sugar. And regardless of the latest development in nutritionism, we all know it's good to have a varied diet. We feel the days we probably shouldn't have indulged and the days where we could really use some veggies.

So yeah, I'm painting a picture, contextual background for the folks at home... Now let's check out Austin's diet.

Grains, Etc.
When I'm not chowing down on amoebas, I'm usually eating boiled green bananas. After all, you wouldn't want those starches to go waste by turning into those pesky, delicious sugars. Boiled green bananas are sort of like chowing down on a plate of potatoes. Sometimes you get salt. Sometimes. When they want to go crazy, they mash the boiled bananas together into a cake and then serve slices. Except there wasn't anything added to the cake. Cake makes it sound delicious, which is deceiving since it's still... boiled... green... bananas.

OK, so after amoebas and bananas there's daichin, another regional favorite. Daichin is a tuber, like yucca or well, kinda like a potato. Again, sometimes with salt, usually served the preferred a la carte, simple.

We ended the pifa season this month. By the end of two months of all pifa, all the time, I actually came around to tolerating this gem. It basically looks like a red egg growing on a type of palm tree. Instead of getting an egg, you get, well, something like a potato. Boil. Serve hot, sometimes with salt. They also would grind up the pulp into a juice. Mmmmm. Chicha de pifa. Nothing like a potato-based drink to quench that thirst.

Then there's rice. I actually don't eat a lot of rice, which is surprising for Panama. I will say that the rice here is delicious when it's fresh. The process of picking to eating is pretty involved. I've actually been lucky enough to be a part of the rice processing... ahem... process.

Step 1: Collect rice from the finca
Step 2: Dry rice on zinc roofing sheets
Step 3: Store rice or sell to your neighbor, etc.
Step 4: Place approximately 10lbs of rice in your huge wooden bowl
Step 5: Proceed to pound the life out of the rice with your equally huge rice pounding tool. (Think of a log with thin center to serve as a handle. Then you drive the log up and down in the bowl, knocking the rice husks off of the grains.)
Step 5A: Hand rice pounder to your nearest Peace Corps volunteer (PCV) to tire him out while you drink a glass of chicha de pifa.
Step 6: Transfer rice to new bowl. Use your time-perfected technique of flicking the rice in the bowl so that the grains stay in the bowl while the husks fall to the waiting chickens at your feet
Step 7: Hand bowl to your local PCV so that he can spend the next 3 hours picking through the bowl for any rice that still has a husk when all is said and done

This whole process takes a the better part of the day, but it wasn´t like you had anything better to do.

I feel like they´ve got the carb thing down. Let's move on to the rest of the food pyramid.

Fruits/Veggies
No comment. Sigh. Starting a garden.

Dairy
No electricity. Sigh. Going to experiment with making cheese from dehydrated milk, etc. Will report back soon.

Fats/Sugars
Well, the pyramid was looking a little skewed. We better make up for a lack of veggies and dairy in the diet in the fats and sugars domain. Every day replace breakfast with a cup of coffee. Now replace a cup of coffee with some low-quality almost coffee and a ton of sugar. Coffee is prepared by taking coffee grounds, throwing them into a pot of boiling water, then adding colder water and sugar to bring it down to drinkable temperature and acceptable Ngabe sugar levels.

For fats, usually the diet is pretty healthy. Most of the community can't afford to cook with oil. Since November and December were the times for holidays and celebrations, there were a lot of pigs that are no longer with us. And I have to say, for all the pigs that were consumed, there didn't seem to be a lot of meat in the picture. Maybe it's because the fat keeps longer, but I seemed to have received a lot of fried pork fat. Sometimes I was lucky enough to still have hairs on the skin. Either way, I returned the plate, the pork fat untouched. There's just some things I can't do. Trying to integrate, but I couldn't hang.

So in conclusion, I'm going to be working with the community on ideas about nutrition. I'd like to expose them to some ideas about vitamins and links to child development and our immune systems. And for any of the concerned friends/family out there, I'll start cooking for myself in a few weeks. Until then, hand me that plate of bananas and hold the salt.

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

A Few Site Photos

My camera died, so there isn't much to share. I'm working on the camera situation.













Tuesday, December 15, 2009

General Debriefing

OK. So I just spent the past month in site. Here's a list of key points:
  • Lost 25 pounds
  • Got amoebas (see point about losing weight)
  • Almost finished building my house (see point about losing weight)
  • Subsisted off of rice and boiled green bananas (see point about losing weight)
  • Built a bridge crossing for an aqueduct on Thanksgiving
  • Gave a speech on Mother's Day to a group of 50 Ngabe mothers (December 12th is Mother's Day here)
  • Got a wicked spider bite
  • Hauled wood two hours through the jungle (hardest work I've ever done, ever)
  • Hauled wood every day for two weeks from the mountains behind the community (hard, but after the two hour haul, seemed somewhat manageable)
  • Cut penca (thatch for the roof of my house)
  • Helped hang a pig before they slaughtered it for Mother's Day (donating to PETA at some point)
  • Watched a pig getting slaughtered
  • Watched a cow getting slaughtered (same day)
  • Watched a chicken getting slaughtered (same day)
  • My camera died from the humidity
So yeah, things have been interesting. My health has seen better days. I'm hanging out this week, popping pills in David (2nd largest city in Panama) until all the fauna inside of me decides to leave. That aside, things are going well. My house is almost done, which means I'll be able to cook for myself shortly, which means that my health will get a lot better, and stay better.

Since I don't get to post that often (I figure I'll leave site every 3-4 weeks), I'm going to post a few blogs this go around. Feel free to cruise through the new stuff posted below this blog.

Teaching English

Teaching English... I had an interview with my APCD (boss) during training about teaching English. I basically stated I didn't want to do it, that I didn't think it was appropriate, that it wasn't why I was here, and could only see myself doing it as a trading card for having the community work on other things that I wanted to work on. In only six weeks, I've come to realize a lot about development work, paternalism, and how much I've changed.

I teach English 2-3 times a week, depending on what's going on with work days, holidays, etc. Why the change of heart?
  1. There are people in the community that are excited about learning English. Who am I to deprive them of that?
  2. Many of the men work for months at a time outside of the community because there are no jobs/economy to speak of nearby. If English gives them a leg up in getting a job, that will help bring money into the community. At this stage in development, money = better health (better food/nutrition, money for medicine and soap)
  3. Eventually that road will open up and 10-15 years from now there could be tourists. It really is a beautiful place, just super remote. Having a few community members that can speak some English could help bring tourist dollars into the community. See point 2 about money
  4. Learning is empowerment. Development work out here is a constant struggle against fatalism. If learning English empowers someone, making them feel they can take on other projects, that they aren't just the ignored lower class, cast aside by colonial powers and now by their own government, then I've done one of the best things I could have hoped to have accomplished in my two years.
I think I was coming at things from the wrong direction. I didn't want to teach English because I thought I would be watering down their own culture, like a second wave of colonialism washing down over them. But I see that learning English can live alongside an embracing of their culture.

This ties into development work in general. (Author's Note: I think I'll be writing many posts on this topic because it's controversial and fascinating.) I came to Panama with this idea that development work is important, but that I didn't want to bulldoze over cultures for the sake of a higher standard of living. After all, the US takes more than its fair share of natural resources. I would hate to see indigenous people going down this path that would eventually lead to losing their way of life coupled with a huge carbon footprint.

So here's where I'm at now in my evolving take on development. I want to help raise the standard of living. The children are sick with diarrhea, infections, have worms and amoebas. The adults fare better, but have some of the same issues. They deserve better. Everyone deserves good health. They deserve education. Knowledge really is power. With education, they will be able to work within the government's development plans for the region. And so I'm going to focus on that while I'm here. And while I worry that eventually there will be a Pottery Barn and McDonalds a chiva ride away, that's a long, long way off. In the meantime, I want to help improve access to better health and the empowerment that comes from knowledge.

Two years. Here goes nothing...

Two Year Plan

When I get back to the community, I'm going to have a big meeting to discuss what I'd like to accomplish over the next two years. A lot will come down to what the community wants to rally behind.

Regardless of the projects, I want to also concentrate on community organization. Here's why: There's a larger community/city a few hours away called Kankintu. For whatever reason, the Panamanian government has decided that Kankintu should get a disproportionate amount of attention for social programs, infrastructure improvements, etc. I think it's because the community is organized and, in that sense, easy to work with. So then there's my community. They're fairly organized, small, and the government is cutting a road behind the community. Once that road opens up, things are going to change. I want to make sure the community is ready for those changes. I want them to be organized so that when the government can start working with the community, they see my community as another Kankintu.

So I see myself forming committees. It's a good way to teach the soft skills like organization, working in groups, planning, etc.

OK, now for the actual projects:
  • Finishing touches on my community's aqueduct
    • Settling tank
    • Moving some of the pipes
    • Painting some pipes for UV protection
    • Building a few more tap stands
    • Sometimes there's air blocks up near the source - air valves or redoing pipe support system
  • Using a GPS, map out the watershed and register with the Panamanian government
  • Finish the aqueduct in the neighboring community where there's another Peace Corps volunteer (Jon)
  • Potentially help a third community with a water system
  • Implement a health promoter training program where community members are trained on nutrition, hygiene, correct medicine usage, and basic first aid. Community members then train other community members
  • Show my community how to start a garden (my garden is almost ready)
  • Show my community new stove designs that uses less wood and reduces smoke (I see my home being somewhat of a demonstration grounds for ideas for the community. I already got a lot of people passing by asking what I was up to when I was working on the garden and composting bin)
I think if I can tackle that list in the two years I'm here, I'll feel pretty f-ing good about my time here.